FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Please, before contacting us read the FAQs and the
information we have provided on our website.
Our information is based on experience with various types of
leather and items made from leather over 30 years. We have had assistance,
guidance, and done testing with tanneries, boot companies, the leather research
laboratory, sportsman’s groups (field tests), and literally thousands of
customers comparing our products in various elements and conditions around the
We can only share and
advise according to our experiences.
We make no guarantees as there are so many variables and few
constants, which you will understand as you read further. Whatever you have
could be different or show different results.
Experiment and experience are
our best teachers.
about leather and its care:
Leather is a skin that can be from a variety of animals,
from reptile to bird to animal. The most common is from a steer, called cowhide,
and it varies a great deal within itself.
As a rule, the cheaper it is the less the quality, i.e. leather
and the item made from the back and sides of an animal are stronger and more
durable than the belly leather. Belly leather is thinner, weaker, scarred and
Leather is tanned by one of many different processes and
each produces different results and characteristics of the finished leather. Common
tanning processes include chrome, vegetable, and silicon, i.e. boots are either
oil tanned or dry tanned. Most uniform and dress boots are coated with a “finishe”,
similar to a varnish on wood, so they can be polished to shine. These are
basically “sealed off”, meaning no liquid (including oil) will penetrate their
1)Will it (HDLP or Oil) darken my leather?
Ans: Almost anything that restores the
natural oils will darken it.
Often this is a reaction with the
bleaching or dying (coloring) processes used when the leather was colored for
its specific use.
As natural oils migrate through
the fibers they change the ratio of oil to dye that were mixed to give it its
original color. This intensifies the dye and alters the color. If your leather has been bleached blonde or
dyed a light color, this darkening will be more significant.
However, it usually enhances the
appearance as it draws out the grain and gives it a richer natural albeit
slightly different darker color.
Many eventually consider this to
be an improvement that gives leather real natural character. I
f darkening is a concern, test
in an inconspicuous location. In some
quality leather it takes 7 days for complete fiber migration and true color to
Another option is to avoid any
color change by simply spraying and protecting with Obenauf’s
. This will repel water and most
stains but will not do everything necessary to actually preserve your leather.
2)Can I use it
Ans: Suede does not require oils for
Water Shield to waterproof and protect against stains.
3)How often should
I apply Heavy Duty LP or Oil?
Ans: Frequency depends on many
factors. i.e. thickness, quality, tanning process (chrome, vegetable, silicon),
animal it’s from, and age of leather.
Conditions: i.e. heat,
wet, chemicals, dry & dusty, sweat and salty acids.
Frequency of use/wear:
i.e. daily, seasonally, inside or outdoors.
used to looking at your leather like you look at your skin. i.e. if it looks
dry it is, restore it with natural oils. If it is
subjected to hard daily use, wet
or dry, it should be restored at least once per month.
Severe conditions: older
leather, scuffing and abrasion require more frequent and Heavy Duty protection.
4)How much should
Ans: Amount will depend on thickness,
age, and type of leather as well as the article itself and conditions to which
it is exposed. i.e. work boot, sofa, saddle, car seat, jacket.
Like the conditions, all are different.
Experience is the best teacher.
Until you’ve learned what works best for your particular article and its
exposure, begin with a light application to avoid over doing with LP or saturation
Multiple lighter applications are
better than one heavy application.
However, for thicker leather and high quality footwear subjected to
severe conditions, a second application of
Heavy Duty LP can be applied soon
after the first one has penetrated.
This double application process
will impregnate the leather to protect longer and better against extremely wet
conditions. Warm with a hair dryer or PEET boot dryer. Wipe or buff off excess.
Use caution when doing a second
application, until your familiar with LP, to avoid excess waxy residue being
left on the surface.
5)What kind of
oils or what is in your products that cause them to be rated superior?
Ans: Both of our preservatives
a blend of 3 natural plant oils, Propolis (an anti-bacteria resin from trees
which is our key ingredient to resist mold, bacteria and most caustic
chemicals), and 2 kinds of beeswax.
Leather Oil: is just a
liquid version and has the same ingredients but a different ratio of beeswax
and Propolis to oil.
Heavy Duty LP: is in a
cream form that is a time release formula wherein the natural oils are
suspended in the wax and Propolis and gradually seep out over a long
period. If the leather gets warmed or
flexed the oils get released faster so leather is protected against parching
and premature cracking due to flexing while dehydrated.
Water Shield: is a simple
non-aerosol water based silicon emulsion spray that was developed as a
waterproofing spray for fabric. It has no safety warnings or hazardous solvents
or propellants. It’s basically water and silicon, with a higher concentration
of silicon than aerosols.
6) What is the best way to get rid of salt and body acids that corrode leather?
Ans: Take 1 tablespoon baking soda in a cup of water, slosh it around inside the boot. This will neutralize body acids and salts. Rinse with clean water.
Occasionally applying Heavy Duty LP on the inside leather will help resist bacteria build up.